In this article we will make a bowl leaving the bark or the natural edge of the wood exposed on the edge of the bowl. We will talk about tools to use and various species of wood and mounting techniques, along with some desired results.
The first step is to select the species of wood you would like to work with, and which will vary greatly with availability and your location. I like to work with green wood because it turns easy (cuts easy). When you are turning the natural edge bowls the surface is uneven and the green wood is easier to work with. On some species the bark will remain tight to the wood throughout the drying process and on other species the bark will loosen from the wood while drying.
I'll give you two examples of species of wood I work with; first Oregon Myrtle Wood (Umbellularia californica), this wood is easy to work when it is green and the bark will stay tight to the wood when dried. A small amount of warping will occur during drying. The grain of Myrtle Wood will change direction throughout the bowl. When the wood is dry it tends to be tough and hard. Big Leaf Maple (Acer macrophyllum) is the second species, when green it is soft and easy to work, the bark will not stay on the wood, removing the bark and leaving the cambium exposed has a very nice appearance. Wood also hardens during drying and there is very little warping. Don't be afraid, experiment with the wood from your area, each species will have unique coloring and texture.
You will need a piece wood that is about 4 to 6 inches thick with the bark on. If you have a large log you can saw the top off the log or on smaller log you can split the log in half. The idea is to have a piece of wood that has a rough dome shape. You will cut the bowl through the top leaving a bark edge around the bowl. Hence natural edge.
You will need to make the wood nearly round to start. To get a circle cut a plywood circle of the diameter you want and put a screw in the center to attach to the log. Using the plywood circle as a guide cut the wood round. I use a band saw with a re-saw of 12 inches if you don't have a band saw use a chain saw and carefully cut the corners off making at least an octagon. Remove the plywood circle, be sure and keep track of the center, stick an awl in the screw hole and make it bigger so that it is easy to see.
Attach the face a plate of about 6 inches in diameter to the top of the wood (bark side) using the hole form the ply wood circle to center the face plate. You will find that the face plate is at an odd angle or maybe not, try to keep the face plate level and where the face plate is above the wood do not over tighten the screws because you will bend your face plate. Use large screws at least 2" in length, this area of the bowl will be removed so the big screw holes won't be seen. Some times the wood is really uneven, using large screws I have attached pieces of hardwood (oak) to level the faceplate on the uneven surface, and then attached the face plate to the oak. Use large screws for safety, they won't be seen.
The sides of the bowl will be higher and lower on opposite sides and that's good it gives the bowl a unique appearance. Be very careful when turning this uneven shape. Watch the top to the bowl while you are turning there will be a ghost created when the wood is out of round, this is easier to see than your cutting point, learn to watch both.
Article 2; we will continue to use the face plate, the tail stock with a 60 degree cone, chuck, gouge and hollowing tools. Drying the green wood will be discussed.
You are now ready to start using Your Wood Turning Tools; you will need a Gouge, Bowl Gouge and a Scraper. Turning the Natural Edge Bowl and drying the wood will be the topic for my next article.
Be sure and visit my web site at http://www.yourwoodturningtools.com/. Please email any comments or questions.
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